Today we will be squaring up the large mandala (created by Parts 1 – 3 of the Universe) to create Sophie’s Garden. Up to this point the playing field has not been exactly level, because those who have heard of/made Sophie’s Garden before soon recognised it and knew roughly what to expect from the CAL up to this point. After today, however, the CAL will indeed be a mystery to everyone!
It is important to note that today will be the last time you will comfortably be able to stop until we get to Week 12 again. I can’t say more without giving the game away…
Sophie’s Universe CAL Part 4 {Sophie’s Garden}
©Dedri Uys 2014. All Rights Reserved.
Special design credit to Chris Simon for the use of a modified version of her Lace Petals flower.
Resources
- Add this CAL to your Ravelry Queue
- Sophie’s Universe CAL 2015 Information
- Use the Print-friendly button at the bottom (right) of this post to print/save this tutorial. Don’t know how? Find out HERE.
- **Part 4 VIDEO TUTORIAL** by Esther Dijkstra from It’s All in a Nutshell
Translations
- Dutch Photo Tutorial by Dianne Baan
- German Translation by Gabriele Rogers
- Spanish Translation by Lynda Hernandez
- Finnish Translation by Sari Åström
- French Translation by Sandra Larvin (with Video Tutorials by Géraldine Cymer)
- Danish Translation by Tina Poulsen
- Russian Translation (with Video) by Natalie V. Alimpieva
- Swedish CAL Information by Emma Vingqvist, Agnetha Magnusson, Åza Karlsson, and Ulrika Larsson
- Arabic Video Tutorial by Banan Felimban
Materials
See the Information Post.
Size
Large | Medium | Small | |
Sophie’s Universe Part 4 | 56 – 58 cm (22″ – 23″) | 46 – 48 cm (18″ – 19″) | 35.5 cm (14″) |
Abbreviations
US Terminology used (US/UK comparison chart here)
- Bpsc – Back post single crochet
- Bphdc – Back post half-double crochet (Squaring Up)
- Bpdc – Back post double crochet (Squaring Up)
- Bptr – Back post treble crochet (Squaring Up)
- Dc – Double crochet
- Fpdc – Front post double crochet
- Fphdc – Front post half-double crochet (Squaring Up)
- Fpsc – Front post single crochet
- Fptr – Front post treble crochet
- Hdc – Half-double crochet
- Sc – Single crochet
- Sl st – Slip stitch
- St/st’s – Stitch/stitches
- Tr – Treble crochet
- * – Repeat instructions between asterisks the number of times specified. This is a hardcore repeat and will consist of multiple instructions.
- () – Repeat instructions between parentheses the number of times specified. This is a lower level repeat.
Special Stitches
- Tr Cluster: Tr3tog – see this tutorial. Please note that we will be working around the front posts of the stitches, not into the tops of the stitches as in this tutorial.
- Standing Stitches – Standing sc’s, hdc’s, and dc’s are stitches used to start the round without the need for the traditional beginning chain. Links to tutorials are supplied in each relevant round.
Instructions
Rounds 1 – 25
You can find the links for Rounds 1 – 25 HERE.
Remember to check the Helpful Tips before starting Part 4. You will need to change to the recommended hook size at the start of this part if you started with a smaller hook (as suggested).
Round 26
In this round, you will be working around the back posts of the stitches from Round 24. Make very sure that you don’t accidentally skip a stitch or work around 2 posts at the same time. To help you with that I have included references to when you should end up at the next fpdc from Round 24.
Making the bptr’s for the corners might be a bit tricky, but I am sure you can manage!
Join your yarn by making a standing single crochet around the back post of any fpdc from Round 24 {Photo 1}. Bpsc in the next 9 st’s.
*Bphdc in the next 10 st’s. The last bphdc should fall in the st before the fpdc from Round 24 {Photo 2}. Bpdc in the next 9 st’s. (Make 3 bptr’s in the next st, ch 2 and make 3 bptr’s in the next st.) This will form your corner {Photos 3 and 4}. Bpdc in the next 9 st’s. The last bpdc should fall in the stitch before the fpdc from Round 24 {Photo 5}. Bphdc in the next 10 st’s. Bpsc in the next 20 st’s.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Omit the last 10 bpsc’s on the last repeat. Join to the first sc with a sl st.
Stitch Counts:
- Total: 256 st’s and 4 ch-2 corner spaces {80 bpsc’s, 80 bphdc’s, 72 bpdc’s, and 24 bptr’s}
- Per Side: 64 st’s {20 bpsc’s, 20 bphdc’s, 18 bpdc’s, and 6 bptr’s}
Round 27
- If you are going to use the same colour, ch 1 and sc in the same st. Sc in the next 13 st’s.
- If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the same st as the sl st join {Photo 1}. Sc in the next 13 st’s.
*Hdc in the next 3 st’s and dc in the next 12 st’s. The last dc should fall in the last bpdc before the 3 bptr’s that form the corner {Photo 2}. Skip the 3 bptr’s. Into the ch-2 corner space: (6 dc, ch 3 and sl st into the third ch from the hook to form a picot, 6 dc). It will be a tight fit getting all 12 dc’s into the corner space. Squish them up good {Photos 3 – 5}. Skip the 3 bptr’s. Dc in the next 12 st’s {indicated with an arrow in Photo 5 and illustrated in Photo 6}, hdc in the next 3 st’s, and sc in the next 28 st’s.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Omit the last 14 sc’s on the last repeat. Join to the first sc with a sl st. Fasten off and work away your tails of yarn.
Stitch Count:
- Total: 280 st’s and 4 corner picots {112 sc’s, 24 hdc’s, and 144 dc’s}
- Per Side: 70 st’s {28 sc’s, 6 hdc’s, and 36 dc’s per side}
Round 28
When you make the corners in this round, they will seem too tight for the round. Do not worry about it.
Join your yarn by making a standing single crochet in any ch-3 picot around {Photo 1}.
*Ch 4. Make a tr cluster, working around the front posts of the 3 bptr’s in Round 26 {Photos 3 and 4}. Ch 2 {Photo 5}. Skip the first 4 dc’s after the bptr’s. Hdc in the next 2 st’s {indicated with an arrow in Photo 6 and illustrated in Photo 7}. Ch 2, skip the next 2 st’s and hdc in the next 2 st’s. (Ch 2, skip the next 2 st’s and sc in the next 2 st’s) 9 times. (Ch 2, skip the next 2 st’s and hdc in the next 2 st’s) twice. There should now be 4 dc’s left before the bptr’s from Round 26 {Photo 8}. Ch 2. Make a tr cluster by working around the front posts of the 3 bptr’s in Round 26 {Photo 9}. Ch 4. Sc in the picot {Photo 10}.*
Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last sc on the last repeat. Join to the top of the first sc with a sl st. Fasten off and work away your tails of yarn.
Once you have completed the round, push the (ch-4, sc, ch-4) bits in each corner to the back of your work, never to be seen or used again {Photos 11 and 12}!
Stitch Counts:
- Total: 116 st’s, 8 ch-4 spaces, and 56 ch-2 spaces {8 tr clusters, 32 hdc’s, and 76 sc’s – including corner sc’s}
- Per Side: 29 st’s, 2 ch-4 spaces, and 14 ch-2 spaces {2 tr clusters, 8 hdc’s, and 19 sc’s – including corner sc }
Round 29
Except for 16 stitches, you will be working only into the stitches of Round 27 in this round. When working into the st’s from Round 27 below the ch-2 spaces, work in front of the ch-2 spaces, not over them!
You will notice that there is a fpdc in the instructions below that has been underlined, bolded, and made red. Why? Because a lot of people have gotten back to me to say that they missed the fact that those stitches should be fpdc’s, not fptr’s. Will the sky fall if I accidentally make them all fptr’s? Nope. Your square will just bulge the teeniest bit on each side.
Join your yarn by making a standing half-double crochet in the second hdc from Round 28 on any side {Photo 1}.
*Fptr in the 2 st’s from Round 27 directly below the next ch-2 space {Photo 2}. Remember to work in front of the ch-2 space, not over it {Photo 5}. (Ch 2 and fpdc in the 2 st’s from Round 27 directly below the next ch-2 space {Photos 3 and 4}) 10 times. Ch 2 and fptr around the 2 st’s from Round 27 directly below the next ch-2 space. Hdc in the next 2 hdc’s from Round 28 {Photo 6}.
You will now be working into the half-circle formed by the (6 dc, picot, 6 dc) from Round 27, and in front of the ch-4 spaces from Round 28. You will have to push the “leaves” out of the way to find the first and last st’s of the half-circle {Photo 7}. Ch 2 and make a tr cluster in the first 3 dc’s of the half-circle {Photos 7 and 8}. (Ch 4 and make a tr cluster in the next 3 dc’s of the half-circle) three times {Photos 9 and 10}. Ch 2 and hdc in the next 2 hdc’s from Round 28 {Photo 11}.*
Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last hdc on the last repeat. Join to the top of the first hdc with a sl st.
Stitch Counts:
- Total: 128 st’s, 12 ch-4 spaces, and 52 ch-2 spaces {16 tr clusters, 16 hdc’s, 16 fptr’s, and 80 fpdc’s}
- Per Side: 32 st’s, 3 ch-4 spaces, and 13 ch-2 spaces {4 tr clusters, 4 hdc’s, 4 fptr’s, and 20 fpdc’s}
Round 30
Join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the central ch-4 space of any corner around. (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same ch-4 space. This is your first corner made {Photo 1}.
*Make 5 dc’s in the next ch-4 space. Make 5 dc’s in the next ch-2 space {Photo 2}. Skip the next 2 hdc’s and sl st in the next fptr {Photo 3}. Make 8 dc’s in the next ch-2 space. Skip the next fpdc and sl st into the next fpdc {Photo 4}. Now you will be working into the st’s and ch-2 spaces of Round 28, which you will find behind the st’s of Round 29. (Sc in the next 2 sc’s of Round 28 {indicated with arrows in Photo 5 and illustrated in Photo 6}, make 2 sc’s in the next ch-2 space of Round 28 {Photo 7}) 8 times. Sc in the next 2 st’s of Round 28. You should now have made 34 sc’s in total.
Working into Round 29 again: sl st in the next fpdc. Skip the next fpdc and make 8 dc’s in the next ch-2 space {Photo 8}. Skip the next 2 fptr’s and sl st in the next hdc {indicated with an arrow in Photo 8 and illustrated in Photo 9}. Skip the next hdc and make 5 dc’s in the next ch-2 space. Make 5 dc’s in the next ch-4 space. (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the central corner ch-4 space {Photo 10}.*
Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat. Join to the top of the standing double crochet with a sl st.
Stitch Counts:
- Total: 304 st’s and 4 ch-2 spaces {168 dc’s and 136 sc’s}
- Per Side: 76 st’s {42 dc’s and 34 sc’s}
Round 31
This round is very involved!
- If you are using the same colour, sl st into the next 2 dc’s and into the corner ch-2 space. (Ch 1, sc, ch 2, sc) into the same ch-2 space.
- If you are using a new colour, start with a standing single crochet in any ch-2 corner space. (Ch 2, sc) in the same ch-2 space.
*Sc in the next 12 dc’s {Photo 1}. Skip the next dc and make a fpdc around the first fptr of Round 29. Make a bpsc in each of the 8 dc’s of the half-circle from Round 30. Skip the next fpdc from Round 29 and fpdc around the next fpdc from Round 29, which will be the fpdc that contains the sl st from Round 30 {Photo 2}. Dc in the next 2 sc’s of Round 30, behind the next ch-2 space of Round 29 {Photo 3}. Fpdc around the next 2 fpdc’s of Round 29 {Photo 4} and skip the next 2 st’s of Round 30, which will be the 2 sc’s made into the ch-2 space of Round 28, directly behind the front post stitches {indicated with arrows in Photo 5}.
Hdc in the next 2 st’s of Round 30. Fphdc around the next 2 fpdc’s of Round 29 and skip the next 2 sc’s of Round 30.
(Sc in the next 2 st’s of Round 30. Fpsc around the next 2 fpdc’s of Round 29 and skip the next 2 sc’s of Round 30) 4 times. Sc in the next 2 st’s of Round 30.
Fphdc around the next 2 fpdc’s of Round 29 and skip the next 2 sc’s from Round 30. Hdc in the next 2 st’s of Round 30. Fpdc around the next 2 fpdc’s of Round 29 and skip the next 2 st’s of Round 30. Dc in the next 2 st’s of Round 30 {Photo 6}.
Fpdc around the next fpdc from Round 29 {Photo 7}. Bpsc in each of the 8 dc’s of the half-circle from Round 30. Skip the next fptr from Round 29 and fpdc around the next fptr {Photo 8}. Skip the next dc from Round 30 and sc in the next 12 dc’s. (Sc, ch 2, sc) in the ch-2 corner space {Photo 9}.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat. Join to the first sc with a sl st.
Stitch Counts:
- Total: 320 st’s and 4 ch-2 spaces
- Per Side: 80 st’s {8 fpsc’s, 36 sc’s, 16 bpsc’s, 4 fphdc’s, 4 hdc’s, 8 fpdc’s, and 4 dc’s}
Isn’t that pretty?
Round 32
- If you are using the same colour, sl st into the ch-2 space. (Ch 1, sc, ch 2, sc) in the same ch-2 space.
- If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing single crochet in any ch-2 corner around. (Ch 2, sc) in the same corner space.
*Bpsc in the next 12 st’s. Bphdc in the next st {Photo 1}. Make 3 tr’s in the first ch-2 space from Round 28 (behind the “petal”) – see Photo 2. Make 3 tr’s in the next ch-2 space from Round 28 {Photo 3}. Skip the 8 bpsc’s of the petal and the next fpdc. Sc in each of the next 34 st’s {Photos 4 and 5}. The last sc should fall in the stitch before the fpdc from Round 31 {Photo 6}.
(Make 3 tr’s in the next ch-2 space from Round 28) twice – as before. Skip the 8 bpsc’s of the petal and the next fpdc of Round 31. Bphdc in the next st. Bpsc in the next 12 st’s. (Sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner ch-2 space.*
Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat. Join to the first sc with a sl st.
Stitch Counts:
- Total: 296 st’s and 4 ch-2 spaces
- Per Side: 74 st’s {24 bpsc’s, 36 sc’s, 2 bphdc’s, and 12 tr’s}
Round 33
In this round you will be making little zigzag “hills” using surface crochet. This round is very slightly asymmetrical. There are 20 sc’s before the zigzags, and only 19 sc’s after them (including the last st of the last “hill”, but not including the corner sc’s).
- If you are using the same colour, sl st into the ch-2 space. (Ch 1, sc, ch 2, sc) in the same ch-2 space.
- If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing single crochet in any ch-2 corner around. (Ch 2, sc) in the same corner space.
*Sc in the next 20 st’s {Photos 1 and 2}. The last sc will fall in the last tr worked into the ch-2 spaces behind the petal. If it doesn’t, check that you haven’t accidentally skipped the first (hidden) st after the corner. (Ch 3 and sl st into the next ch-2 space from Round 29. This ch-2 space will be in front of your work and between front post groups {Photos 3 and 4}. Ch 3, skip the next 3 st’s from Round 32 and sc in the next st from Round 32 {Photo 5}) 9 times. The last sc should fall in the second tr worked into the ch-2 spaces behind the petal.
Sc in the next 18 st’s. You will now have 19 sc’s (including the last st of the last “hill”). (Sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner ch-2 space.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat. Join to the first sc with a sl st.
Stitch Counts:
- Total: 196 sc’s, 32 zigzag “hills”, and 4 ch-2 corners
- Per Side: 49 sc’s per side and 8 zigzag “hills”
Round 34
- If you are using the same colour, sl st into the ch-2 space. (Ch 2, hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the same ch-2 space.
- If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing half-double crochet in any ch-2 corner around. (Hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the same corner space.
*Skip the first (hidden) stitch and hdc in the next 20 st’s {Photo 1}. (Hdc in the next 3 st’s from Round 32 {Photo 2}, make a bpsc around the next sc from Round 33 {Photos 3 and 4}, which will be at the top of the zigzag “hill”) 8 times. Hdc in the next 3 st’s of Round 32. Hdc in the next 20 st’s of Round 33, making sure not to accidentally skip the first st after the last ch-3 {Photo 6}.
(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch-2 corner space.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat. Join to the top of the beginning ch-2 (or the standing half-double crochet) with a sl st.
Stitch Count: 284 hdc’s, 32 sc’s, and 4 ch-2 corner spaces {79 st’s per side}
Round 35
Join your yarn by making a standing half-double crochet in any ch-2 corner space around. (Hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the same corner space {Photo 1}.
*Skip the first hdc, which will be hidden anyway {Photo 1} and hdc in the next 18 st’s {Photos 2 and 3}. Bpdc around the fourth bpsc of the “petal” formed by Rounds 30 and 31 {Photos 4 and 5}. Skip the next st of Round 34 {indicated with an arrow in Photo 6} and hdc in the next 40 st’s. Bpdc around the fourth bpsc of the “petal” formed by Rounds 30 and 31. Skip the next st of Round 34 and hdc in the next 18 st’s. (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch-2 corner space.*
Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat. Join to the top of the first hdc with a sl st.
Stitch Count: 328 st’s and 4 ch-2 corner spaces {82 st’s per side}
Round 36
- If you are using the same colour, sl st into the next hdc and into the ch-2 space. (Ch 1, sc, ch 2, sc) in the same ch-2 space.
- If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing single crochet in any ch-2 corner around. (Ch 2, sc) in the same corner space.
*Bphdc in each of the 82 st’s across. (Sc, ch 2, sc) in the next ch-2 corner space.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat. Join to the first sc with a sl st.
Bind off and work away your tails of yarn. If you need visual help, see the photo for the Optional Flowers below.
Stitch Count: 336 st’s and 4 ch-2 corner spaces {84 st’s per side}
Optional Flowers
These flowers will be made into the bpsc’s of the 8-dc “petals” formed by Rounds 30 and 31. If you think this makes the corners look too busy, feel free to leave them out. You can make all the flowers in the same colour, or each one in a different colour. It is totally up to you.
And if you feel like making totally different flowers, that’s also fine!
Join your yarn to the first bpsc (Round 31) of any 8-dc “petal” from Round 30 with a sl st. (Make 4 hdc’s in the next st, sl st in the next st) 4 times. The last sl st should fall in the top of the fpdc after the petal. Bind off and work away your tails of yarn.
Repeat for each of the 8 “petals” from Rounds 30 and 31.
Phew! I think I deserve a glass of wine (and so do you)!
Here are all 3 “Gardens”, unblocked but still pretty :)
Credit
This pattern was originally tested up to this point by the following people:
Kimberly Slifer, Claire Martin, Beth Spaulding, and Venetia Smith.
Thank you for testing and proofing this pattern for me!
This blog post contains affiliate links. I only link to products I personally use or would use. All opinions are my own.
Jan says
Just love this pattern. Is there any way to make it bigger? I am finished with this and I was hopeing to have a bigger blanket when I finished. It is very pretty and everyone likes it. I just want it bigger. If I started over and made another, would that look weird if I put them together? Or I could just add another part 4 to make it bigger. However, that wouldn’t make it wider just longer. Any suggestions would be welcome.
Thanks, Jan
Dedri Uys says
Hi Jan. I am assuming that you have only completed the first 4 parts at this point? There are 14 more parts that you need to complete in order to create the blanket. The first 4 parts just give you the square in the very center of the blanket.
Stefani Brown says
Well, I must admit that just after finishing round 36 it was looking quite nice on the seat of my wingback chair which desperately needs recovering….but I am having such fun and I have bought the yarn to do the whole universe so for now I am moving onto Part 5.
Thanks again and again
S
Dedri Uys says
I’m glad you’re having fun, Stefani!
Stefani Brown says
Wow, I am having so much fun with Sophie’s Garden. Wanted to send you my thanks and praise. I guess that I am about a year behind everyone else (just finished round 30) but I don’t mind and I love reading what others have said. Thanks so much for this awesome pattern, very helpful descriptions and pictures. Everything is crystal clear. All my other projects have been relegated to the back burner cuz I can’t stay away from the “garden”. And finally thanks for your general awesomeness it is greatly appreciated.
Dedri Uys says
Hi Stefani :)
What a nice comment to start my day with! I am very pleased that you are enjoying the pattern. Are you thinking of continuing on to do the whole Universe, or have you got a specific plan for the Garden?
Kate says
Me too! I would never have attempted something so complicated had it come to me via an ordinary pattern!
Alex says
Dear Dedri,
I am really enjoying this cal. Thanks for publishing it! Just a question about hook sizes. I am just finishing off round 4 and I didn’t go up a hook size when I was meant to. I am now finding the centre is bulging a little and I don’t want to make it worse. Is it worth me going up a hook size now? Or on a later part? Or do I just stick to the 4mm one? Help please
Thank you :-)
Dedri Uys says
Hi Alex. You can still go up a hook size at the end of Round 4 :) I would go up to a 4.5 for the remainder if you are having bulging issues. Is the bulge happening before or after blocking, though? I suggest blocking this blanket quite a lot (after most parts, in fact).
Farah says
Hi Dedri! I honestly can‘t thank you enough for posting this wonderful pattern. It takes someone very generous to do that; and ewih the level of detail and accuracy in the instructions! oh my God!!
I made sophie’s mandalw in only 3 colors as a center piece for my living room table, and thrn I couldn‘t resist starting a sophie’s universe in full color explosion HAHA! can’t wait to show you my finished work when it’ done :)
Lots of love from Cairo, Egypt
Farah xx
Dedri Uys says
Hi Farah. I am so pleased that you are enjoying the pattern! I can’t wait to see your colour explosion :)
Janet says
Thought you might be interested to know. I started with a hook larger than I meant to by accident. Didn’t have my glasses on. For the yarn, I should have been using a 3.25 or 3.5mm hook. I used a 4mm. So when I came to the part about going up a hook size I decided to try going up to a 4.25. I haven’t had any problems with curling or puckering . It’s lying beautifully flat.
I’m enjoying the challenge of this immensely. The instructions are very easy to follow with the help of the photos. Thanks for all your hard work and your ability to be able to design such a piece in the first place. I live in rural Australia and without the internet would never have known about this sort of crocheting.
Dedri Uys says
Hi Janet. Thank you for your comment. I am sure your hook sizes will help someone else in the same boat. I am glad that you are enjoying Sophie and look forward to hearing about your progress :)
Donna says
I love your creativity. You have a real talent for creating beauty. I wanted to thank you for sharing this beauty. I do appreciate all that you have done. It takes a special person to share good things in life. I also was impressed with the print friendly that I could make PDF files to put on my computer. It was easy as pie. LOL Have a wonderful time with all the great things in life you have made me a fan….
Dedri Uys says
Thank you, Donna :)
Aahley says
Hi! I was just looking back on my Sophie as im currently on part 4. I noticed that somehow in part 1 I entirely skipped row 6 and went right to 7 ( no idea how that happened). I’m a complete perfectionist and this bugs me but it actually hurts to think of ripping out all my work to fix it. Do you think my stitch count will be affected? It appears now that I have the correct amount of stitches so I’m unsure. Any advice? Should I frog it all?
Dedri Uys says
Aahley, if you are absolutely sure that you have the correct amount of stitches you can continue.
Soffity says
I live in rural Australia and have only just discovered your web site. I’m up to part 4 of Sophie’s Universe which I’m making with a 60% bamboo/40%wool yarn made in Bendigo in Australia. Your instructions are wonderful, very easy to follow. I find the hints on where you should be when your doing certain stitches the most helpful. I check I’m in the right place after each repeat and if I am I know I’m on the right track. There is so much out there that’s simple it’s great to have a challenge. This is so much fun to do, no chance to get bored with the same stitch over and over. My mum made an afghan and it had well over 50,000 dc’s in it and not much else. The hours it must have taken you to present such a polished and detailed pattern I can’t imagine. Thanks so much, your kindness, amazing talent and love of crochet has reached far across the seas.
Jenny says
We are so pleased you are enjoying Sophie! She is a beautiful project indeed and Dedri loved every minute of creating and sharing the pattern with all of us :)
Amy says
Hi! I am really enjoying your beautiful pattern. I have completed part 3 and just had a question about gauge. I guess I am just a super relaxed crocheted but I am using a 3.5 mms hook and acrylic 3ply. My part one measured 7 1/2 inches! I thought I was doing a baby blanket…anyway so now at the beginning of part four there is a note about going up a needle size. Should I do that? I’m afraid I’ll end up with a baby blanket fit for Godzilla! Thanks for your help.
Jenny says
Going up a hook size will help stop your Sophie from sagging in the middle, Amy. If you keep to the same hook size (as I did), just know you may need to block the living day lights out of her when done :)
Emily says
I’m having SO much fun making my Sophie!! My little girl is 17 months and keeps patting it and saying “OOOOO!” Which is exactly how I feel! It’s be-yoo-tiful! And I think bubba and I are going to be arguing about whose it is!! :) thank you soooo much for sharing.
Dedri Uys says
Hehe. Luckily you will have a few years yet before your 17 month old starts having coherent debates, so keep the blanket for yourself until then x
Jenny says
Don’t forget to show us photos of (both) your babies! :)
Helga says
Thank you so much for the pattern. I have never had so much fun crocheting anything before. I feel like a crochet master, but at the same time know that I would never have been able to make this if the instructions weren´t so good :) I know that there are quite a few women here in Iceland making this pattern and they are all super happy with it. So your creation will be keeping us warm and happy this winter, looking at all the colors and pretty flowers while waiting for summer to come back :)
Jenny says
It is lovely to hear that Sophie is keeping everyone happy in Iceland, Helga :)
Kathy says
I recently found the pattern for Sophie’s Universe and am now just ready to begin Part 5. Part 4 definitely has been the most challenging so far, but the instructions and pictures are just perfect! As I was ready to begin each round, I thought to myself “I can’t do this, it’s too hard” but with patience each row worked out like magic! Happy! Happy!
Sophie’s Universe really is a sampler for many, many uses of crochet stitches and techniques. Didra, you really are an amazing master crocheter and designer. Thank you for your part in keeping crochet as an art! I have crocheted for 49 years and could NEVER have done what you have!
Jenny says
I echo your sentiments, Kathy, and well done on giving Sophie a go. I also loved the fact that you get to learn how to create so many new stitches with Sophie :)
Bobbi L. Driscoll says
Dedri…I LOVE Sophie’s Universe and decided to make myself an afghan ( I don’t own anything that I have made for myself). Well I am at level 32 and loving it. My 3 daughters show up and start saying, “you are making that for me”! “Nope, it’s for me!” Mind you they are 46, 40 and 38 years old and they begin whining…so I am now making 4 Sophies, lol. I am on level 13 on the other 3 and will not work on mine until I get these 3 caught up. I am also working on gifts for my 21 grandchildren and 12 great grandchildren for Christmas. Thank you so much for this beautiful pattern!!! You are AWESOME!
Hugs,
Bobbi
Dedri Uys says
Hi Bobbi. It sounds like you are SUPER busy. I’m glad you all like Sophie so much and hope that you can manage to finish 4 of them before Christmas. I made 4 in 6 months, so it’s do-able x
Magdalena says
Thanks (again) for lovely free pattern. It’s kind of funny cuz the “flowers in yhe corners look like sunflowers for me, with green leaves, red center and yellow petals. That was not the plan but I kinda like it :3
Vicky Ripton says
Hi,
this is lovely, i followed the pattern using pastels coulours for a baby girl, and will be making another in white. I want to make a larger ond as a wedding present, do yoh gave more rounds? Or would you use a combination of what is here.
TIA
vicky
Dedri Uys says
Hi Vicky. In the sidebar you will find the link for Sophie’s Universe, which is an extension of this pattern.
Dedri
Ame says
Hello and many many thanks for this huge beautiful amazing tutorial!!
It will probably take me longer than a year to work it all out, but I WILL make this.
Thank you
Thank you
Thank you
Ame.
Dedri Uys says
You are welcome :)
Dedri Uys says
:)
Deb Gesing says
I love the excellent pictures included in each round. So when I couldn’t find the pictures in Round 35 instructions, I was a tad disappointed. I needed to see the placement of a bphdc into the bphdc below it. Could you post the pictures please?
Deb a devoted Sophie gardner from the U.S.
Dedri Uys says
Hi Deb. I did not do step-by-step photos for the rounds that consist solely of basic stitches in every stitch across. If you need more assistance than the pattern offers, you can watch the You Tube videos, which are excellent and show the stitches being made.
Jaye says
Why are the rows beginning on the “slip stitch of the previous row”? I am ending up with a lot of knots and ends to weave in all at the same axis. It makes it look very messy and lumpy. Can you just say which stitch you should could start on further around the row. by offsetting all of the beginnings and endings it keeps the balance of the work. I hate to go to all of the work making it to have it end up looking sloppy and bumpy with all of the woven ends bunched into one place.
Dedri Uys says
Jaye, I have done everything in my power to make this pattern beginner-friendly. One of the main issues was avoiding the confusion of the final sl st, which appears to add a fake extra stitch (for those who aren’t discerning enough yet to realize how to navigate it). You are free to start on any repeat to get the look you desire. The majority of the rounds after part 3 start in a corner space, so you shouldn’t have this problem all throughout the pattern.
Lyn says
All I can say is, “WOW”! OK, I’ll say more…This is such an amazing pattern! I’ve had my head into crochet for only about 18 months, but I never shy away from a new stitch or pattern that floats my boat. This pattern was saved on my pinterest board for MONTHS and I always look at it and say “someday…”! It is soooo pretty and intricate, I never thought I had the skill to attempt it. Now I’m nearly finished and I just can’t stand how much I love this!
One thing I’ve learned about patterns is…they’re only as good as the pattern maker! (and apparently those who proof and test) You’ve done an amazing job teaching how to complete this Amazing Mandala! Not sure I could have done it without the photos (which were excellent!). I’ve only had to “frog” a few stitches! Kudos to you for creating this AND for sharing it at No Cost!!
Thank You a Bazzillion Times!!!
Jenny says
Lyn, are you going to ‘grow’ your Sophie in to the full Universe?
I totally agree with your comments in patterns and their makers! I had a lot less crochet tome under my belt when I started my first Sophie and am still in awe of all the new stitches Dedri is teaching me along the way!
Embrace your love of Sophie and Crochet On! :)
Lyn says
LOL! Thanks, Jenny! I plan on following Dedri very closely. What an Artist! I wasn’t sure what you meant by “grow” my Sophie in to the full Universe…then I Saw! What the WHAT??? That is CRAZY!!!! I’m going to complete part 4 and make it into a pillow. Then I’d planned on making many Sophie Pillows for Holiday Gifts. I’m pretty sure I’m going to make a full Sophie Universe, How can I NOT?!?! Have You Made One??