Sophie’s Mandala Pattern {Large}

 

Sophie’s Mandala Pattern {Large}

Written-only Mandala Pattern

©Dedri Uys 2014.  All Rights Reserved.  You can find my Terms of Use here.

Special design credit to Chris Simon for allowing me to use a modified version of her Lace Petals flower.

Resources

• Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
• Photo tutorial Rounds 1 – 8
• Photo tutorial Rounds 9 – 15
• Photo tutorial Rounds 16 – 25

If you would like to print this pattern for personal use, please use the PrintFriendly button at the bottom of the page.

Difficulty

Intermediate

Gauge

Using worsted weight yarn and dc stitches:  8 rows and 18 st’s per 4” (10 cm) square.

Size

16.5” (42 cm) in diameter.

Materials

• 4 mm crochet hook (US G/6  UK 8)
• Worsted weight yarn or double knit yarn (light worsted weight) – approx. 250 meters/275 yards
• Yarn Needle

Abbreviations

US Terminology used (US/UK comparison chart here)

• BLO – Back loop only
• Bpsc – Back post single crochet
• Dc – Double crochet
• FLO – Front loop only
• Fpdc – Front post double crochet
• Fpdtr – Front post double treble
• Fpsc – Front post single crochet
• Fptr – Front post treble crochet
• Hdc – Half-double crochet
• Sc – Single crochet
• Tr – Treble crochet
• * – Repeat instructions between asterisks the amount of times specified.  This is a hardcore repeat and will consist of multiple instructions.
• () – Repeat instructions between parentheses the amount of times specified.  This is a lower level repeat.

Special Stitches

• Cluster :  Dc3tog – see this tutorial.
• Crab stitch – This stitch is also known as the reverse single crochet.  See this tutorial.
• Picot:  Ch 3, sl st in the third chain from the hook
• Popcorn stitch:  Make 5 dc’s in the same stitch.  Remove your hook from the last stitch.  Insert your hook into the first dc of the 5 dc’s.  Grab the last stitch with your hook and pull it through the first stitch.  Ch 1.  See this tutorial.
• Standing Stitches – Standing sc’s, hdc’s, and dc’s are stitches used to start the round without the need for the traditional beginning chain.  Links to tutorials are supplied in each relevant round.
• V-stitch:  (Dc, ch 2, dc) in the same stitch

Instructions

Round 1

Into a magic ring:  ch 4 (this counts as your first dc and ch 1) and then make a dc.  (Ch 2, dc, ch 1, dc) five times.  Ch 2 and join to the third st of the beginning ch-4 with a sl st.  You should now have 6 ch-1 spaces, 6 ch-2 spaces and 12 dc’s.

If you are not familiar with working into a magic ring, this video tutorial by Tamara from Moogly is very good.  Please remember when working into a magic ring, you HAVE to work away your initial tail very well.  If you just cut it, your whole project might unravel!

Stitch count:  12 dc’s, 6 ch-2 spaces and 6 ch-1 spaces

Round 2

• If you are going to use the same colour for Round 2, sl st into the next ch-1 space, ch 1 and sc in the same space.
• If you are going to use a new colour for Round 2, join your new yarn by making a standing single crochet in any ch-1 space around.

(Make 5 dc’s in the next ch-2 space, sc in the next ch-1 space) five times.  Make 5 dc’s in the last ch-2 space.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.

Stitch count:  30 dc’s and 6 sc’s  {6 Petals} 

Round 3

• If you are using the same colour, ch 1 and make a fpsc around the post of the same sc.
• If you are using a new colour, join your new colour with a fpsc around the post of any sc from the previous round.  You will make the fpsc exactly the same as the standing single crochet, but working around the post of the stitch instead of into the top 2 loops.

*(Dc, ch 1) in the next 4 dc’s.  Dc in the last dc.  Fpsc in the next sc.*  Repeat from * to * 5 times.  Omit the last fpsc on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the first sc with a sl st.

If you started with a standing fpsc, you might find it tricky to join to it with a sl st.  Pull the beginning tail of yarn so that you can see the top loops of the stitch.  If you cannot manage to poke your hook through both loops, you are more than welcome to join to the FLO of the standing fpsc.

You should have 6 petals, each containing 5 dc’s and 4 ch-1 spaces, and a fpsc between petals. 

Stitch count:  30 dc’s, 6 fpsc’s, and 24 ch-1 spaces {6 Petals}

Round 4

Round 4 is simple, but you have to concentrate!  I had to frog this round a few times because I either forgot the ch-1′s or I made the stitches in the wrong spots.

• If you are using the same colour, ch 1 and fpsc around the post of the same fpsc as the sl st join.
• If you are using a new colour, start with a fpsc around the post of any fpsc around.

*Hdc in the first dc and then ch 1.  This first dc might be slightly tricky to get into because it is right next to the fpsc.  (Dc in the next dc, ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 space, ch 1) twice.  Dc in the next dc and then ch 1.  Hdc in the last dc and fpsc in the next fpsc.*  Repeat from * to * 5 times.  Omit the last fpsc on the last repeat.  Join to the first fpsc with a sl st.  Fasten off and change colours.

Stitch counts: 

• Total:  48 st’s and 36 ch-1 spaces  {6 fpsc’s, 12 hdc’s, 30 dc’s, and 36 ch-1 spaces}
• Per Petal:  2 hdc’s, 5 dc’s, and 6 ch-1 spaces per petal  {1 fpsc between petals}

Round 5

You will not be working into the hdc’s in this round.  You will skip the first and last hdc of every petal. Join your new yarn by making a standing single crochet around the back of the post of the last dc of any petal around.  Phew…I say “of” a lot in that sentence!  Hehe.   You are basically starting with a standing back post sc, if such a thing exists.

*Ch 2 and fpdc around the post of the fpsc between the petals.  (Ch 2, bpsc around the post of the next dc) 5 times.*  Repeat from * to * 5 times.  Omit the last bpsc of the last repeat.  Join to the first bpsc with a sl st.

Stitch counts:  

• Total:  30 bpsc’s, 6 fpdc’s, and 36 ch-2 spaces
• Per Petal:  5 bpsc’s and 6 ch-2 spaces per petal, and 1 fpdc between petals

Round 6

• If you are going to use the same colour, sl st into the next ch-2 space.  Ch 5 (this counts as the first dc plus ch-2) and dc in the next ch-2 space.  These 2 dc’s should fall on either side of the fpdc from the previous round.
•  If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in the next ch-2 space.  Ch 2 and dc in the next ch-2 space.  These 2 dc’s should fall on either side of the fpdc from the previous round.

*Ch 2 and hdc in the next ch-2 space. (Ch 2, sc in the next ch-2 space) twice.  Ch 2, hdc in the next ch-2 space.  (Ch 2, dc in the next ch-2 space) twice.*  Repeat from * to * 4 times. Ch 2 and hdc in the next ch-2 space.  (Ch 2, sc in the next ch-2 space) twice.  Ch 2 and hdc in the next ch-2 space.  Ch 2 and join to the third ch of the beginning ch-5 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Notice that the dc’s fall on either side of the fpdc’s from the previous round.

Stitch count:  36 st’s and 36 ch-2 spaces  {12 sc’s, 12 hdc’s, 12 dc’s and 36 ch-2 spaces}

Round 7

• If you are going to use the same colour:  sl st into the next ch-2 space.  Ch 1 and make 2 sc’s in the same ch-2 space.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the next ch-2 space and then make another sc in the same ch-2 space.

Make 2 sc’s in the next ch-2 space.  Make 3 sc’s in the next ch-2 space.  *Make 2 sc’s in each of the next 2 ch-2 spaces, make 3 sc’s in the next ch-2 space.*  Repeat from * to * 10 times.   Join to the BLO of the first sc with a sl st.

Stitch count:  84 sc’s

Round 8

You will be working in the back loops only (BLO) for this round.

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 2 (this counts as your first hdc).
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing hdc in the BLO of the same st as the sl st join.

Hdc in the BLO of the next 5 st’s and make 2 hdc’s in the BLO of the next st.  *Hdc in the BLO of the next 6 st’s, make 2 hdc’s in the BLO of the next st.*  Repeat from * to * 10 times.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-2 (or the standing hdc) with a sl st.

Stitch count:  96 hdc’s (worked into the BLO)

Round 9

• If you are going to use the same colour:  Ch 5 (counts as the first dc and ch-2) and then dc in the same st.  This is your first V-stitch made.  Ch 1.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in the same stitch as the sl st join, then ch 2 and dc in the same st.  This is your first V-stitch made.  Ch 1.

*Skip 3 st’s, make a V-stitch in the next st, ch 1.*  Repeat from * to * 22 times.  Join to the third ch of the beginning ch 5 (or to the top of the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch count:  24 V-stitches and 24 ch-1 spaces between V-stitches  {48 dc’s, 24 ch-1 spaces, and 24 ch-2 spaces}

Round 10

Note:  In this round, you will only be working into the ch-2 spaces, in other words, the space between the 2 “legs” of each V-stitch.

• If you are going to use the same colour, sl st in the next ch-2 space, ch 1 and sc in the same space.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the next ch-2 space.

*Make 4 tr’s into the next ch-2 space.  Ch 3 and sl st in the third ch from the hook.  You should now have a little picot at the top of the fourth tr.  Make 4 more tr’s into the same ch-2 space.  Sc in the next ch-2 space.*  Repeat from * to * 11 times.  Omit the last sc on the last repeat.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.  Fasten off and change colours.

Stitch counts: 

• Total:  12 petals and 12 sc’s  {96 tr’s and 12 sc’s}
• Per Petal:  8 tr’s, 1 picot {1 sc between petals}

Round 11

Optional:  if you would like to give the petals more definition, feel free to work into the BLO in this round.

Join your new yarn by making a standing half-double crochet in the first tr of any petal around.  If you have trouble identifying which loops belong to which stitch, see this tutorial.  It touches on the anatomy of stitches when working in the round.

After making your first hdc, sc in the next tr of the petal.  Ch 6.  Sc in the seventh tr of the petal and hdc in the last tr.  Dc in the sc between petals. *Hdc in the first tr of the next petal and sc in the next tr.  Ch 6.  Sc in the seventh tr of the petal and hdc in the last tr.  Dc in the sc between petals.*  Repeat from * to * 10 times.  Join to the standing hdc with a sl st.

Stitch count:  12 dc’s, 24 hdc’s, 24 sc’s, and 12 ch-6 spaces.

Round 12

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 1 and sc in the same st.  Then sc in the next st.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the same st as the sl st join and then sc in the next st.

*Make 6 sc’s in the ch-6 space behind the petal.  Sc in the next 5 st’s.*  Repeat from * to * 10 times.  Make 6 sc’s in the last ch-6 space and then sc in the last 3 st’s.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.

Stitch count:  132 sc’s

Round 13

Notes:  The first sc  of each repeat will fall in the third sc made into the ch-6 space.  The two 4-tr groups which form each petal will fall on either side of the dc in Round 11. When skipping the 3 st’s after the petal, be mindful of the fact that the first stitch to skip will be slightly hidden.

•  If you are going to use the same colour, ch 4 (this counts as your first tr) and then make 3 tr’s in the same st.
• If you are going to use a different colour, join your new colour by making a sl st in the same st as the sl st join.  Ch 4 (this counts as your first tr) and then make 3 tr’s in the same st.

*Skip 3 st’s (see Notes above).   Sc in the next st.  Catch the picot from Round 10 by inserting your hook into the second ch of the picot AND into the next st from Round 12 and completing a sc through both layers.  Sc in the next sc.  Skip 3 st’s.  Make 4 tr’s in the next st.   Make a picot (as in Round 10) and then make 4 tr’s in the next st.*  Repeat from * to * 10 times. Skip 3 st’s.  Sc in the next st.  Catch the picot by making a sc through the picot from Round 10 and into the next st of Round 12 (as before).  Sc in the next sc.  Skip 3 st’s.  Make 4 tr’s in the last st.   Make a picot.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-4 with a sl st.  Fasten off and change colours.

Stitch count: 

• Total:  12 petals and 36 sc’s  {96 tr’s and 36 sc’s}
• Per Petal:  8 tr’s, 1 picot {3 sc’s between petals}

Round 14

Optional:  if you would like to give the petals more definition, feel free to work into the BLO in this round. Join your new yarn by making a standing half-double crochet in the first tr of any petal around.  Sc in the next tr of the petal.  Ch 6.  Sc in the seventh tr of the petal and hdc in the last tr.  Dc in the next sc, fpdc around the picot from Round 10, dc in the last sc. *Hdc in the first tr of the next petal and sc in the next tr.  Ch 6.  Sc in the seventh tr of the petal and hdc in the last tr.  Dc in the next sc, fpdc around the picot from Round 10, dc in the last sc.*  Repeat from * to * 10 times.  Join to the standing hdc with a sl st.

Stitch count:  24 dc’s, 12 fpdc’s, 24 hdc’s, 24 sc’s, and 12 ch-6 spaces.

Round 15

Round 15 is the same as Round 12, but with more sc’s.

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 1 and sc in the same st.  Then sc in the next st.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the same st as the sl st join and then sc in the next st.

*Make 6 sc’s in the ch-6 space behind the petal.  Sc in the next 7 st’s.*  Repeat from * to * 10 times.  Make 6 sc’s in the last ch-6 space and then sc in the last 5 st’s.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.

Stitch count:  156 sc’s

Round 16

Hint:  The hdc’s worked into the picots should fall in the 4th sc in the ch-6 space.   

• If you are going to use the same colour, sl st into the next st and then ch 2 (this counts as your first hdc).  Hdc in the next 3 st’s.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing half-double crochet in the st after the sl st join.  Hdc in the next 3 st’s.

*Catch the picot by making a hdc through the picot from Round 13 and into the next st of Round 15 (as before).  Hdc in the next 5 st’s, fptr around the post of the fpdc from Round 14.  Skip the next st of Round 15 and Make 2 hdc’s in the next st.  Fptr around the same fpdc from Round 14.  Skip the next st of Round 15 and hdc in the next 4 st’s.*  Repeat from * to * 11 times.  Omit the last 4 hdc’s on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-2 (or standing hdc) with a sl st.

Stitch count:  168 st’s  {144 hdc’s and 24 fptr’s}

Round 17

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 1 and sc in the same st.  Sc in the next 4 st’s.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the same st as the sl st join.  Sc in the next 4 st’s.

*Fpdc around the picot from Round 13.  Skip the next st  from Round 16 and sc in the next 6 st’s.  Make 2 sc’s in the next st.  Sc in the next 6 st’s.*  Repeat from * to * 11 times.  Omit the last 5 sc’s on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the first sc with a sl st.

Stitch count:  180 st’s  {168 sc’s and 12 fpdc’s}

Note

In the next 3 rounds Sophie has a tendency to buckle.  This will correct itself in Rounds 21 and 22, so don’t worry about it.  If your stitch count is spot on, you’ll be fine.

Round 18

Remember that the 5-dc popcorn stitch is closed with a ch st.

• If you are going to use the same colour, sl st into the next 3 st’s so that you end up in the second sc before the fpdc.  Ch 2 (this counts as your first hdc).   Hdc in the next st.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing half-double crochet in the second sc before any fpdc from the previous round.  Hdc in the next st.

*Make a popcorn stitch in the next st (which will be the fpdc).  Hdc in the next 4 st’s.  Fptr around the fptr from Round 16.  Skip the next st of Round 17.  Hdc in the next 2 st’s.  Make 2 hdc’s in the next st.  Hdc in the next 2 st’s.  Fptr around the fptr from Round 16.  Skip the next st of Round 17.  Hdc in the next 3 st’s.*  Repeat from * to * 11 times.  Omit the last 2 hdc’s on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-2 (or the standing hdc) with a sl st.

Stitch count:  192 st’s  {156 hdc’s, 12 popcorns and 24 fptr’s}

Round 19

Hint:  There are 12 repeats of 16 st’s.  If you want to check that you aren’t skipping/adding stitches, the first st of each repeat should fall in the popcorn stitch. Identifying which “loops” to work into for the popcorn stitch:  for the purposes of this pattern, the “top” of the popcorn stitch will be the first dc of the 5-dc’s used to create the popcorn.  You will find the loops for this stitch to the right of the popcorn (to the left if you are left-handed).

• If you are going to use the same colour, sl st to the popcorn stitch.  Ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in any popcorn stitch around.

Dc in each st around.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch count:  192 dc’s

Round 20

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).  Dc in the next 3 st’s.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join.  Dc in the next 3 st’s.

*Fpdtr around the fptr from Round 18.  Skip the next st of Round 19.  Dc in the next 10 st’s.  Fpdtr around the fptr from Round 18.  Skip the next st of Round 19.  Dc in the next 4 st’s.  The first dc should fall in the dc in the top of the popcorn stitch.*  Repeat from * to * 11 times.  Omit the last 4 dc’s on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch count:  192 st’s  {168 dc’s and 24 fpdtr’s}

Round 21

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).  Dc in the next st.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join.  Dc in the next st.

*Make 2 dc’s in the next st.  Dc in the next 3 st’s.  The last dc should fall in the dc after the fpdtr from the previous round.  (Ch 2 and make a cluster) three times.  Ch 2 and dc in the next 3 st’s.*  Repeat from * to * 11 times.  Omit the last 2 dc’s on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch count:  132 st’s and 48 ch-2 spaces {96 dc’s and 36 clusters }

Round 22

At this point, the “petals” formed by your front post stitches are almost complete.  In this round, you will be forming the points of the petals.  Do not worry if your mandala starts to curl in this round, it will straighten out in the next round.

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 1 and sc in the same st.  Sc in the next 2 st’s.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the same st as the sl st join.  Sc in the next 2 st’s.

*Fpdtr around the fpdtr from Round 20 to the left of the popcorn stitch (right, if you are left-handed).  Fpdtr around the fpdtr from Round 20 to the right of the popcorn stitch (left, if you are left-handed).  Skip the next st of Round 21.  Sc in the next 3 st’s.  (Make 2 sc’s in the next ch-2 space, sc in the top of the next cluster) three times.  Make 2 sc’s in the last ch-2 space.  Sc in the next 4 st’s.*  Repeat from * to * 11 times.  Omit the last 3 sc’s on the last repeat.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.

Stitch count:  240 st’s  {216 sc’s and 24 fpdtr’s}

Round 23

When working around the fpdtr’s from the previous round, you will make one fpdc around both posts (together) and skip the tops of these 2 st’s.

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).  Dc in the next 2 st’s.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join.  Dc in the next 2 st’s.

*Make a fpdc around the posts of both fpdtr’s from Round 22.  Dc in the next 18 sc’s.  Don’t accidentally skip the first sc after the fptr’s.*  Repeat from * to * 11 times.  Omit the last 3 dc’s on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.

Stitch count:  228 st’s  {216 dc’s and 12 fpdc’s}

Round 24

In this round, you will be making increases by working into the loops of the fpdc’s AND around the posts.

• If you are going to use the same colour, ch 1 and sc in the same st.  Sc in the next st.
• If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the same st as the sl st join.  Sc in the next st.

*Hdc in the next 2 st’s.  The last hdc should fall in the top of the fpdc from the previous round.  Fpdc around the post of the fpdc from the previous round.  Hdc in the next 2 st’s.  Sc in the next 15 st’s.*  Repeat from * to * 11 times.  Omit the last 2 sc’s on the last repeat.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.  Fasten off and work away your tails of yarn.

Stitch count:  240 st’s  {180 sc’s, 48 hdc’s, and 12 fpdc’s}

Round 25 (Optional)

Start in any stitch around with a standing single crochet.  Make a crab stitch in each st around.  If you are not familiar with the crab stitch, see this video tutorial.  When you get to the end of the round, make a crab stitch in the same stitch as the standing single crochet.  No need to join with a sl st.  In fact, I’ll give you an apple if you manage to do it!  Just fasten off and work away your tail of yarn.

Stitch count:  240 crab stitches

Tested and proof-read by:

Rosanne Van de Peppel  ♥  Kimberly Slifer  ♥  Phyllis Haygood  ♥  San B from Loopsan

John P Kelly from HeisHooked  ♥  Heather Knotek Smith  ♥  Vicky Currier  ♥  Lauren Brown Spurlin

Erica Liebenberg  ♥  Claire Martin  ♥  Beth Spaulding  ♥  Venetia Smith

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Happy Hooking!