There are many crochet rug patterns out there: square crochet rugs, round crochet rugs, doily type rugs…so many styles to choose from and each one unique in its own way. Today I would like to show you how to crochet a round rag rug using single crochet, half double crochet, or double crochet stitches.
Of course I can just give you the pattern, but I’m all about the teaching. So instead of giving you one specific crochet rug pattern, I want to help you understand the principles behind the round rag rug, so that you can make as many of them as you wish, adapting them as it suits you.
In the table below you can find the instructions/pattern for a basic circle rag rug using single, half-double or double crochet stitches, together with some tips about what to do if your rug warps in any way.
How to Crochet a Round Rag Rug
©Dedri Uys 2011. All Rights Reserved.
- T-shirt yarn (like Scheepjes Noodle or Premier Craft-Tee Yarn) OR non-stretch fabric yarn OR wool/yarn (lots and lots of strands held together)
- Susan Bates 10mm Crochet Hook OR Lion Brand 15mm Crochet Hook
- Strong arms!
Jersey Cotton Crochet Rug
This Rug was made using jersey cotton t-yarn cut into 2.5 cm (1″) strips. If you don’t know what t-yarn is or how to make it, take a quick look at my tutorial on how to make fabric yarn.
I had to alter the amount of increases in my pattern quite a bit as I went, because some of the fabric pulled into yarn quite easily while other colours just did not want to “tube”. Also, the red and blue (which tubed well – is that even a word??) were way more elastic than the other colours, which made a difference as well.
If you use an elastic material, it is very difficult to keep your tension the same and because this is the kind of project that will keep you busy for a few nights, there is just NO WAY that your tension will be the same night after night. When I’m pissed off, I crochet so tight that I can’t get into my own stitches. And when I’m tired I tend to work quite loosely.
So if you put those two variables together AND add some fabric with a completely different elasticity, you are bound to run into a bit of trouble.
This is why I think that understanding the logic behind the rug (how to get rid of ruffles or a bowl shape) can help prevent this EASY project turning into a nightmare!
Cotton/Linen Crochet Rug
You can make your own fabric yarn (I don’t think the name Farn will ever catch on) by cutting a duvet cover or some sheets into strips. As with the t-yarn, 2.5 cm (1″) strips work the best, being neither too thick (difficult to work with) or too thin (might tear easily).
I prefer using a duvet cover as it is already a tube (once you’ve cut the bottom off) and can be cut in the same way as the t-shirt yarn above, just on a way bigger scale.
But if you have separate strips of fabric that you would like to link together, this tutorial by Crochet Is The Way has some very clear photos on joining strips of fabric to each other without sewing.
The advantage of using non-stretch fabric yarn is that it acts very much like yarn would in that it does not buckle and ‘bowl’ quite as easily as jersey cotton. The disadvantage of using non-stretch fabric for your crochet rug is that it does not stretch AT ALL. So where yarn would give you a little bit of stretch, making it easy to get into stitches on subsequent rounds, non-stretch fabric yarn does not budge. To avoid the resulting finger-cramp, remember to loosen your tension when working with non-stretch fabric yarn. You will save yourself a lot of cursing!
Wool/Yarn Crochet Rug
Wool/yarn is by far the easiest material to use when making a crochet rag rug. So if you want a project that grows at the speed of light, that doesn’t tax your brain, that can be as pretty as you choose (because you choose the colours, baby!)…if you want a quick and simple brain-in-hibernation-mode project, then a crochet rug made from yarn is just the thing for you.
You will need 4 to 8 strands of double knit yarn (or 3 to 6 strands of chunky yarn) and a good tv series. You can see my completed yarn rag rug HERE.
US Terminology Used – US/UK Conversion Chart HERE
- Ch – Chain
- Dc – Double Crochet
- Dc Inc – Double Crochet Increase (make 2 dc’s in the same st)
- Hdc – Half-double Crochet
- Hdc Inc – Half-double Crochet Increase (make 2 hdc’s in the same st)
- Sc – Single Crochet
- Sc Inc – Sc increase (make 2 sc’s in the same st)
- Sl st – Slip Stitch
- St – Stitch
- () – Repeat all instructions between parentheses the number of times specified. For example: “(sc inc, sc) 2 times” will mean “sc inc, sc, sc inc, sc”.
These directions are accurate for working with wool and the correct crochet hook; however, you might need to start with one or two more – or less – stitches than set out in this table, depending on the thickness and elasticity of your yarn of choice.
- When you work with fabric yarn you enter a whole realm of fuid variables, so do a round or two and see how you go.
- If your initial rounds pull up like a bowl, undo and add a stitch or two to the very first round.
- If your initial rounds are wavy like a tutu, start with one or two stitches less.
- The number of increases in every round will be x, where x is the initial number of stitches worked into the central ring.
- The initial ch st’s in each round do not count as a st.
These instructions are written for joining in the round. If you wish to work in a spiral instead, simply skip the sl st and the initial ch st/st’s in each round and continue, making the first st of each round in the first st of the previous round. See THIS TUTORIAL for more information about working in a spiral.
Crochet Round Rag Rug
If you increase/decrease the number of stitches in the initial round, it will affect the number of increases in each round. So if you start with 5 sc’s in the first round, you will repeat the pattern between parentheses 5 times in every subsequent round and your total number of stitches will be multiples of 5.
If you start with 7 stitches in the first round, you will repeat the pattern between parentheses 7 times in each round, making your total number of stitches a multiple of 7.
Like I have already mentioned: this is not an exact science. But once you understand the basics, you should find it easier to spot when you need to increase more/less to make your rug stay flat.
If you enjoyed this tutorial, have a look at my new book, Big Hook Rag Crochet (available in US terms by Lark Crafts on Amazon.comand in UK terms by Search Press on Amazon.co.uk). It contains 25 wonderful patterns (by a host of amazing designers). Each project is made using fabric yarn, but you can just as easily make them with multiple strands of wool/yarn.