Sophie’s Universe Part 5 {CAL 2015}

Sophie’s Universe Part 5

©Dedri Uys 2014. All Rights Reserved.

Good morning and welcome to the first completely mystery part of the CAL.  We hope you have great fun this week!!

Resources

• Add this CAL to your Ravelry Queue
• Sophie’s Universe CAL 2015 Information
• Use the Print-friendly button at the bottom (right) of this post to print/save this tutorial.  Don’t know how? Find out HERE.
• **Part 5 VIDEO TUTORIAL** by Esther Dijkstra from It’s All in a Nutshell

Translations

• Dutch Photo Tutorial by Dianne Baan
• German Translation by Maja Heidingsfelder
• Spanish Translation by Lynda Hernandez
• Finnish Translation by Sari Åström
• French Translation by Sandra Larvin
• Danish Translation by Tina Poulsen
• Russian Translation (with Video) by Natalie V. Alimpieva
• Swedish CAL Information by Aneli Moberg from Paradisfrun Virkar
• Arabic Video Tutorial by Banan Felimban

Materials

For the purposes of this tutorial I am using Scheepjeswol Cotton 8 (available from Deramores) and a 3.25 mm Clover Amour Crochet Hook (US D/3  UK 10).  

In some of the photos I have used a different colour than the specified colour to make it easier for you to see where the stitches go.

Colours for Part 5
Click on the images to enlarge them.
	Cotton 8	Softfun	Stonewashed XL
Round 37	Light Turquoise	Light Blue	Amazonite
Round 38	Light Green	Olive	Canada Jade
Round 39	Canary	Canary	Corundum Ruby
Round 40	Moors	Cyclamen	Lemon Quartz
Round 41	Moors	Cyclamen	Garnet
Round 42	Light Purple	Violet	Moonstone
Round 43	Light Purple	Violet	Moonstone
Round 44	Light Purple	Violet	Moonstone
Round 45	Light Turquoise	Light Blue	Moonstone

Abbreviations

US Terminology Used (Basic US/UK comparison chart here)

• Ch – Chain
• Dc – Double crochet
• Fpdc – Front post double crochet
• Fpsc – Front post single crochet
• Hdc – Half-double crochet
• Sc – Single crochet
• Sl st – Slip stitch
• St/st’s – Stitch/stitches
• * – Repeat instructions between asterisks the number of times specified. This is a hardcore repeat and will consist of multiple instructions.
• () – Repeat instructions between parentheses the number of times specified. This is a lower level repeat.

Special Stitches

• Popcorn Stitch: Make 5 dc’s in the same stitch.  Remove your hook from the last stitch.  Insert your hook into the first dc of the 5 dc’s.  Grab the last stitch with your hook and pull it through the first stitch.  Ch 1.  See this tutorial.
  • Beginning Popcorn Stitch: Ch 3 (counts as first dc).  Make 4 dc’s in the same stitch.  Remove your hook from the last stitch.  Insert your hook into the third ch of the beginning ch-3.  Grab the last stitch with your hook and pull it through the first stitch.  Ch 1.  See this tutorial.
• V-Stitch:  (Dc, ch 1, dc) in the same stitch.
• Picot:  Ch 3, sl st in the third chain from the hook.

Instructions

Rounds 1 – 36

You can find the links for Rounds 1 – 36 HERE.

Round 37

Join your new yarn by making a standing double crochet in any ch-2 corner space around.  (Dc, hdc, 2 dc) in the same ch-2 corner space.  This is your first corner made.

*Skip the first 2 st’s, remembering that first hidden stitch, and dc in the next 80 st’s.  Skip the last 2 st’s.  (2 dc, hdc, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 corner space.*

Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the standing double crochet with a sl st.  Fasten off and work away your tails of yarn.

The first photo below shows the 2 skipped stitches on either side of the (2 dc, hdc, 2 dc) corner.

Stitch Counts: 

• Total: 340 st’s  {4 hdc’s and 336 dc’s}
• Per Side: 84 dc’s (not including corner hdc)

IMPORTANT NOTE

From this point onward, your “square” will have 8 facets (or sides).  There will be 4 short sides and 4 long sides.  As the rounds grow, the short sides will get longer and the long sides will get shorter.  You’ll soon see what I mean.

Round 38  {Leaves}

Join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the fifth dc of any side.  (Ch 1, dc) in the same stitch.  This  is your first V-stitch made – see Photo 1.  (Skip the next 2 st’s and make a V-stitch in the next st – see Photo 2) 25 times.   You should now have 26 V-stitches.  There should be 4 dc’s left unworked before the corner hdc (Photo 3).

*Short Side:  Ch 8 (Photo 4) and skip the next 9 st’s.

Long Side:  Make a V-stitch in the fifth dc of the next side (indicated with an arrow in Photo 4 and illustrated in Photo 5).  (Skip the next 2 st’s and make a V-stitch in the next st) 25 times.*

Repeat from * to * 3 times, omitting the last long side on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the standing double crochet with a sl st.

Stitch Counts: 

• Total: 104 V-st’s and 4 ch-8 spaces
• Per Short Side: 1 ch-8 space
• Per Long Side: 26 V-stitches

Round 39 {Tulips}

In this round you will be forming the tulips.  Your work will seem quite tight at the end of this round, but don’t worry about it too much.  Keep your tension relaxed when making the ch-2 spaces and you will be just fine!

Before we get started, let’s talk about those popcorn stitches.  Just like in Round 18 the popcorn stitches are closed with a ch st.  This ch stitch is part of the popcorn stitch!  When you are instructed to ch 2 after each popcorn stitch that ch-2 does not include the ch used to close the popcorn stitch (red arrow in Photo 2 below).  

• If you are using the same colour, sl st into the next ch-1 space and make a beginning popcorn (see Special Stitches above).
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the ch-1 space of the first V-stitch on any side. Make 4 more dc’s in the same ch-1 space and complete a Popcorn Stitch (Photo 1).

(Ch 2 – see Photo 2, and make a Popcorn Stitch in the ch-1 space of the next V-stitch – see Photo 3) 25 times.  You should now have 26 popcorns, one in each V-stitch from the previous round.

*Short Side:  Ch 5 (Photo 4).  Working in front of the ch-8 space from Round 38, make a fpsc around the corner hdc from Round 37.  Ch 5 (Photo 5).

Long Side:  Make a Popcorn Stitch in the ch-1 space of the first V-stitch on the next side (Photo 6).  (Ch 2, make a Popcorn Stitch in the ch-1 space of the next V-stitch) 25 times.*

Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last long side on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the first popcorn with a sl st.

Stitch Counts: 

• Total: 108 st’s, 8 ch-5 spaces, and 100 ch-2 spaces  {4 fpsc’s and 104 popcorns}
• Per Short Side: 1 fpsc and 2 ch-5 spaces
• Per Long Side: 26 popcorns and 25 ch-2 spaces

Round 40

In this round, you will be working into the ch-2 spaces from Round 39 AND between the V-stitches from Round 38.  When working between the V-stitches, work IN FRONT OF the relevant ch-2 space.  I have found that it is easier if you fold the ch-2 down behind your work when making the stitches between the V-stitches from Round 38, otherwise it is just in the way.

• If you are using the same colour, sl st into the next ch-2 space. (Ch 1, sc) into the same space.  Working in front of the ch-2 space, dc between the 2 V-stitches from Round 38 directly below the same ch-2 space.  Sc in the same ch-2 space.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing single crochet in the first ch-2 space of any long side (Photo 1). Working in front of the ch-2 space, dc between the 2 V-stitches from Round 38 directly below the same ch-2 space (Photos 2 -4).  Sc in the same ch-2 space (Photo 5).

(Skip the next popcorn.  Sc in the next ch-2 space.  Working in front of the ch-2, dc between the 2 V-stitches from Round 38 directly below the same ch-2 space.  Sc in the same ch-2 space) 24 times.

*Short Side:  Make 4 sc’s into the first ch-5 space (Photo 6).  Working in front of the ch-5 space, dc in the first corner dc from Round 37 and hdc in the next corner dc.  Sc in the top of the fpsc from Round 39 (Photo 7).  Sc in the next ch-5 space (Photo 8).  Working in front of the ch-5 space, hdc in the next corner dc from Round 37 and dc in the last corner dc.  Make 4 sc’s into the same (last) ch-5 space (Photo 9).

Long Side:  (Skip the next popcorn.  Sc in the next ch-2 space.  Working in front of the ch-2, dc between the 2 V-stitches from Round 38 directly below the same ch-2 space.  Sc in the same ch-2 space) 25 times.*

Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last long side on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the first sc with a sl st.  Fasten off and work away your tails of yarn.

Stitch Counts: 

• Total: 356 st’s  {240 sc’s, 8 hdc’s, and 108 dc’s}
• Per Short Side: 14 st’s  {10 sc’s, 2 hdc’s, and 2 dc’s}
• Per Long Side: 75 st’s  {50 sc’s and 25 dc’s}

Round 41 {Purple Petals}

You will be making pretty Purple Petals in this round.  The petals are similar to the ones used in Rounds 10 and 13.

UPDATE:  Please read this round carefully.  Not all the petals will fall in a dc between popcorns.  ONLY Petals 1, 4, 7, and 10, as specified in the Hint below this round.  If you struggle with this round, please have a look at the brilliant video tutorial that Esther Dijkstra has done.

Join your yarn by making a standing single crochet in the fourth sc made into the first ch-5 space of any short side.  Sc in the next 3 st’s (Photo 1).  The last sc should fall in the sc you made into the fpsc from Round 39.  Fpdc around the fpsc from Round 39 (Photo 2).  Sc in the next st of Round 40, directly behind the fpdc you just made.  Sc in the next 3 st’s (Photo 3).  The last sc should fall in the first sc after the dc.  This is your first short side made.

*Long Side:  Sc in the next st.  Mark this stitch with a stitch marker to make it easier to count your stitches later on (Photo 4). (Skip the next 3 st’s.  Make 4 tr’s in the next st – see Photo 5.  Ch 3 and sl st into the third ch from your hook.  This is your picot made.  Make 4 tr’s in the same st.  Skip the next 3 st’s and sc in the next st – see Photo 6) 10 times – see Hint below.  The last sc should fall in the third sc made into the first ch-5 space of the short side (Photo 7).  Mark this stitch with a stitch marker to help with counting later.  You should now have 10 petals, each separated by one single crochet.  

Short Side:  Sc in the next 4 st’s.  Fpdc around the fpsc from Round 39.  Sc in the next st of Round 40, directly behind the fpdc you just made.  Sc in the next 3 st’s.*

Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last short side on the last repeat.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.

Fasten off and work away your tails of yarn.  Once you have counted your stitches (see Stitch Counts below), you can remove the stitch markers again.

Hint

To help prevent copious amounts of frogging, I am going to give you a little tip.  The first petal will fall in the dc between the first 2 popcorns.  The fourth petal will fall in the dc between the ninth and tenth popcorns.  The seventh petal will fall in the dc between the seventeenth and eighteenth popcorns.  The tenth petal will fall in the dc between the last 2 popcorns.

You don’t necessarily have to count the popcorns, but you SHOULD check that petals 1, 4, 7, and 10 fall in a dc.  If they don’t, you’ve made a booboo.  Have a look at Photo 9 if you need visual help with this.

Stitch Counts: 

• Total: 400 st’s and 40 picots  {76 sc’s, 4 fpdc’s, 320 tr’s, and 40 picots}
• Per Short Side: 9 st’s  {8 sc’s and 1 fpdc}
• Per Long Side (starting at the first marked stitch and ending at the last marked stitch):   10 petals and 11 sc’s  {8 tr’s and 1 picot per petal}

Round 42

Keep your tension relaxed when making the ch-3 spaces.  When working into the back loops only, your stitches might look very “stretchy”.  Don’t worry about it! It will all magically work out.  If you are going to have trouble identifying the ch-1 spaces at the start and end of every short side, consider using stitch markers to mark them.

Join your new yarn by making a standing single crochet in the seventh treble of the last petal on any long side.  (Ch 1, sc) in the same stitch.  Sc in the last tr of the petal and hdc in the next st (Photo 1).  Sc in the next 9 st’s.  The fifth sc will fall in the top of the fpdc from the previous round.  Hdc in the next st.  Sc in the first tr of the first petal.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next tr.  This is your first short side made (Photo 2).

*Long Side (working into blo):  (Ch 3 – see Photo 3.  Skip the next 4 tr’s (and the picot) and sc in the blo of the seventh tr of the petal.  Hdc in the blo of the last tr of the petal – see Photo 4.  Fpdc around the sc between petals – see Photo 5.  Hdc in the blo of the first tr of the next petal.  Sc in the blo of the second tr of the petal – see Photo 6) 9 times.  Ch 3.  Skip the next 4 tr’s and the picot.

Short Side:  (sc, ch 1, sc) through both loops of the seventh treble of the last petal.  Sc in the last tr of the petal and hdc in the next st.  Sc in the next 9 st’s.  Hdc in the next st.  Sc in the first tr of the first petal.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next tr.*

Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last short side on the last repeat.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.

Don’t worry about flicking the ch-3’s to the back of your work.  You can do that later.

Stitch Counts: 

• Total: 248 st’s, 40 ch-3 spaces, and 8 ch-1 corners  {132 sc’s, 80 hdc’s, and 36 fpdc’s}
• Per Short Side: 15 st’s  {13 sc’s and 2 hdc’s}
• Per Long Side: 47 st’s and 10 ch-3 spaces  {20 sc’s, 18 hdc’s, and 9 fpdc’s}

Having Trouble With the Stitch Counts?

When counting the sides (in this and subsequent rounds), you will count from the ch-1 corner space to the next ch-1 corner space.  In Rounds that have a ch-2 corner space, you will count from ch-2 corner space to the next ch-2 corner space.  Any exceptions will be highlighted.  Have a look at the photo at the start of Part 6 if you need visual help.    

Round 43

The ch-1 spaces are a bit tricky to get into.  It is also quite easy to accidentally skip the first sc after the ch-1 space.  You will have to skip some of these “hidden” sc’s on purpose, so make sure that you can identify them.  See this tutorial if you need a recap of which loops belong to which stitch.

• If you are using the same colour, (ch 1, sc, ch 1, sc) in the same stitch as the sl st join.  This is your first corner made.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing single crochet in the last sc of any long side (in other words, the sc before the ch-1 space). (Ch 1, sc) in the same stitch (Photo 1).  This is your first corner made.

Sc in the next ch-1 space (Photo 2).  Skip the next (hidden) st and sc in the next 7 st’s (indicated with an arrow in Photo 2 and illustrated in Photo 3).  The last sc should fall in the sc made into the fpdc from Round 41.  Make a fpdc around the fpdc from Round 41 (Photo 4).  Sc in the next 7 st’s of Round 42.  Sc in the next ch-1 space (Photo 5).  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next (hidden) st (indicated with an arrow in Photo 5 and illustrated in Photo 6).  This is your first short side made.

*Long Side: Make 2 sc’s in the next ch-3 space (Photo 7).  Sc in the next 5 st’s (Photo 8).  (Make 3 sc’s in the next ch-3 space.  Sc in the next 5 st’s) 8 times.  Make 2 sc’s in the last ch-3 space.

Short Side:  (sc, ch 1, sc) in the next st.  Sc in the next ch-1 space.  Skip the next (hidden) st and sc in the next 7 st’s.  Make a fpdc around the fpdc from Round 41.  Sc in the next 7 st’s.  Sc in the next ch-1 space.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next (hidden) stitch.*

Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last short side on the last repeat.  Join to the first sc with a sl st.

Stitch Counts: 

• Total: 376 st’s and 8 ch-1 corner spaces  {372 sc’s and 4 fpdc’s}
• Per Short Side: 19 st’s  {18 sc’s and 1 fpdc}
• Per Long Side: 75 sc’s

Round 44

Each long side starts with 4 sc’s and ends with 3 sc’s.  This slight asymmetry will be corrected in the next round, so do not worry about it. 

• If you are using the same colour, (ch 1, sc, ch 1, sc) in the same stitch as the sl st join.  This is your first corner made.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing single crochet in the same stitch as the sl st join. (Ch 1, sc) in the same stitch.  This is your first corner made.

Sc in the next ch-1 space.  Sc in the next 19 st’s (Photo 1).  Don’t accidentally skip the first (hidden) stitch.  Sc in the next ch-1 space.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next (hidden) stitch (Photo 2).  This is your first short side made.

*Long Side:  Skip the next sc (indicated with an arrow in Photo 2).  Sc in the next 4 st’s.  The last sc should fall in the sc you made into the fpdc from Round 42 – see Photo 3.  (Fpdc around the fpdc from Round 42 – see Photo 4.  Skip the next st of Round 43 – see Photo 5 – and sc in the next 7 st’s.  The last sc should fall in the sc you made into the fpdc from Round 42 – see Photo 6) 8 times.  Fpdc around the fpdc from Round 42.  Skip the next st of Round 43 and sc in the next 3 st’s.

Short side:  (sc, ch 1, sc) in the next st.  Sc in the next ch-1 space.  Sc in the next 19 st’s.  Don’t accidentally skip the first (hidden) stitch.  Sc in the next ch-1 space.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next (hidden) stitch.*

Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last short side on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the first sc with a sl st.

Stitch Counts: 

• Total: 380 st’s and 8 ch-1 corner spaces  {344 sc’s and 36 fpdc’s}
• Per Short Side: 23 sc’s
• Per Long Side: 74 st’s  {65 sc’s and 9 fpdc’s}

Round 45

• If you are using the same colour, sl st into the ch-1 space. Ch 1 and make 2 sc’s in the same ch-1 space.
• If you are using a new colour, join your yarn by making a standing single crochet in the ch-1 space at the start of any short side. Sc in the same stitch (Photo 1).

Skip the first (hidden) stitch.  Sc in the next 11 st’s.  The last sc should fall in the sc made into the fpdc from Round 43 (Photo 2).  Fpdc around the fpdc from Round 43 (Photo 3).  Sc in the next 11 st’s (Photo 4).  Make 2 sc’s in the next ch-1 space (Photo 5).

*Long Side:  Skip the first (hidden) sc (indicated with an arrow in Photo 5).  Catch the picot from Round 41 with the next hdc.  To do this, yarn over, insert your hook into the second ch of the picot AND into the next st from Round 44, and complete an hdc through both layers – see Photos 6 and 7.  (Hdc in the next 7 st’s.  The fourth hdc should fall in the fpdc from the previous round – see Photo 8.  Catch the picot with an hdc, as before – see Photo 9) 9 times.  Photo 10 shows the last hdc of the long side made.

Short Side:  Make 2 sc’s in the next ch-1 space.  Skip the first (hidden) stitch.  Sc in the next 11st’s.  The last sc should fall in the sc made into the fpdc from Round 43.    Fpdc around the fpdc from Round 43.  Sc in the next 11 st’s.  Make 2 sc’s in the next ch-1 space.*

Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last short side on the last repeat.  Join to the top of the first sc with a sl st.

Stitch Counts: 

• Total: 400 st’s  {104 sc’s, 292 hdc’s, and 4 fpdc’s}
• Per Short Side: 27 st’s  {26 sc’s and 1 fpdc} – this stitch count includes both sc’s of the 2-sc corner
• Per Long Side: 73 hdc’s

And that is quite enough for this week.  Please let us know if there is anything you struggle with (or if you pick up any errors).  This part was tested and proofread by Kimberly Slifer, Claire Martin, and Venetia Smith.  Thank you very much, girls!!!

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